BY KOREN ZAILCKAS - In 1999, the Academy Award-winning film American Beauty encouraged us to "look closer." When the Tear Sheet staff began searching for our fashion icon of the year, we did indeed look closer. We looked at double-face camel-hair coats and cotton-quilted field jackets and steel-stretch flannel jodhpurs. And what we found was the originator of American beauty and reigning king of sportswear: Michael Kors. Michael Kors has survived - and thrived - in the fashion world for over 20 years, with collections rooted in quiet luxury and tailored elegance. Tear Sheet's award doesn't come with a gilded figurine - but then, Kors was never one for garish accessories anyway.

KZ: It's often been said that your designs embody the past, present, and future of American sportswear. Yet you yourself reside in both New York and Paris. Since you lead a sort of double life between the United States and Europe, how would you define the essence of American sportswear?

MK: While I work in both the U.S. and France, I am the epitome of a New Yorker. I travel extensively for work and pleasure, and hope that I bring all of that experience to whatever I do. Americans really invented sportswear, and the rest of the world has caught on. Sportswear is all about ease, mobility, speed, and function; hopefully what I bring to it is luxury, glamour, and a sense of chic.

KZ: In your opinion, what are this season's must-have items?

MK: I think every woman should add a great pair of boots, a piece of denim, and a leaner pant or jodhpur to her wardrobe this season.

KZ: The fashion world has thrown the word "extravagance" around a lot throughout the past year. You were once quoted as saying "extravagance is not my strong point." What do you think distinguishes luxury from extravagance? Why do you choose to veer away from flamboyance in fashion?

MK: The whole idea of extravagance in fashion does not really appeal to me; it connotes over-the-top embellishment and a sense of covering yourself in over-the-top costume. Luxury is extravagant. The definition is different to all people - maybe for some it's their first cashmere sweater, to others it's being the only one to know that your raincoat is mink lined. Flamboyance is totally unappealing to me, because as far as I'm concerned, I want to notice the woman first, not what she's wearing. My first impression of a really chic woman is "she looks great," not "her dress is great," and ultimately that's luxurious.

KZ: Many writers have been quick to describe your designs as minimalist. What do you think of the term? Do you find it confining?

MK: I never think of what I do as minimal - there is nothing minimal about a double-face cashmere coat, or a 16-ply cashmere sweater. My designs may be simple, but simple mixed with luxury does not equal minimal.

KZ: In the past you've listed designers Halston and Coco Chanel among your influences; in what ways have they influenced your work?

MK: Both Halston and Chanel had a sense of sportswear in everything they did. The idea of doing everything with a sporty edge has always pervaded my work.

KZ: In your opinion, who are some of the most beautiful models working today? What do you think distinguishes them from others?

MK: Gisele Bundchen, Carmen Kass, Frankie Rayder, Carolyn Murphy, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell. They all have a very strong personality which comes through in everything they do - you notice them, not just what they're wearing.

KZ: Over the years, there were a number of fashion houses that tried to get their hands on you. Why did you decide to design for Celine? What was it about the fashion house that you connected with?

MK: Celine is one of the only French houses whose history is steeped in sportswear rather than couture. I knew that I could make a difference - I had a strong vision - and it made sense to me.

KZ: What type of woman do you have in mind when you sit down to design a new collection?

MK: The woman is always a bit different based upon what I'm feeling for, but there are a few constants in my collections: she's always strong, independent, chic, and sporty.

KZ: Your fall collection has been described as a cross between equestrian chic and upper-class country living. Where did your inspiration come from?

MK: I always have a fantasy in mind when I develop a new collection. For this season, I loved the idea of the chicest woman in Bedford - a bit of country chic, but with a polished edge.

KZ: You're not new to the design business…were there any critical turning points you experienced during your early career? Do you have any additional advice for aspiring designers?

MK: The one thing I've learned over the past 20-plus years is to always stick to what you do. I've certainly evolved and grown as a designer, but I've always stayed within my own framework and vocabulary. Don't ever chase after something that is not inherent to what you do.

KZ: What do you like to do when you're not working? Do you have any favorite leisure activities? Favorite books, movies, music?

MK: I love reading, going to movies, and most of all the beach - I love the ocean. I am like a sieve for information, so all kinds of books, magazines, movies are always part of my free time. When I get on a plane or go to the beach I have a massive tote bag filled with DVDs, magazines, every current biography, and CDs.

KZ: Where are your favorite places to shop in New York City and Paris?

MK: I like looking at everything, but the fantasy of food shopping in Paris is amazing - I love Fauchon. In New York my favorite places are a bit more practical: I love Boyd's on Madison and Bigelow downtown.

KZ: Where do you see fashion going in future years? Where do you see yourself going? Are there any professional or personal goals that you haven't yet completed?

MK: Technology will greatly influence fashion in future years. Fifteen years ago who would have thought you could have stretch leather jeans? As far as my own goals, I hope that there is still a lot for me to accomplish over the coming years. My sense of curiosity is very strong, and I hope to pursue and develop anything that piques my interest.