Oleg Cassini was born a count in Czarist Russia. He grew up in Italy. Later he came to America, where he created costumes in Hollywood for more than one legendary starlet (and had more than one on his arm, including the woman he married: Gene Tierney). In the 50's Mr. Cassini opened his own fashion house. The height of his early career was the commission to become the personal couturier to Jacqueline Kennedy. You can still see his influence on today's runway, most recently in Marc Jacobs' fall 2000 show to name one.

During the 1,000 days of the Kennedy Administration, his designs, over 300, draped the exquisite body of Jackie. In addition his own designs, he coordinated every bit of her wardrobe, from shoes, stockings, and gloves to hats, jewelry, and furs. The entire world had their eyes on her like no other First Lady in our nation's history. Cassini's designs started a revolution in fashion: the new "Jackie Look" Knock-offs popped up in every type of department store, so that women the world over got to look somewhat like the reigning Queen of Camelot. Women who never thought they could afford a couture look were flocking to stores for their piece of Jackie. Cassini was the very first designer to reach the masses, and he made Jackie the best- dressed woman in the world, elevating her to the level of a glamor icon.

Oleg Cassini, now 87 years old, is carrying his influence into another century. This amazing gentleman is still creating elegant, timeless clothes. I sat down with him to see what he is up to now, and, of course, to do a little delving into his intriguing past.

bf: What's up Mr. Cassini? I am overjoyed to have the distinct opportunity to sit down and chat with you. Right off the bat, did you ever think that your straightforward, simple, and very elegant creations for Jackie Kennedy would make such an impact on fashion around the globe?

oc: No!

bf: What was your first meeting with Mrs. Kennedy like?

oc: Very friendly, we met at the El Morocco nightclub, a very popular social spot, five years before she was married to Senator Kennedy. She was with Stanley Mortimer. My brother Igor Cassini was an important columnist who wrote under the pen name of Cholly Knickerbocker. Igor named Jacqueline Queen Deb of the Year in 1947.

bf: The letters of correspondence in your book were simply charming. What are your memories of the telephone calls?

oc: Very friendly and relaxed, mixing fashion with friendly gossip.

bf: There you were, this very fine Russian Gentleman in the first order, meeting American Royalty, were you not? Or was it just a creative soul meeting a genuine lady in the rarest of forms? Were her first words vocal or written?

oc: Our first meeting regarding her "White House" wardrobe was in Georgetown Hospital, shortly after the birth of her son John-John, and her first words were "Hello, Oleg."

bf: Your book 1000 Days of Magic: Dressing Jacqueline Kennedy for the White House is quite something and in my opinion should be in every fashion lover's library. Did you ever think about just making it the text for a fashion course for those wanting to enter the industry?

oc: No, but I thought it was a necessary story to write and it is a historic document by a true witness.

bf: Was there a muse(s) other than Jackie who inspired you to create like a passionate madman or was she the ONE?

oc: Grace Kelly, Gene Tierney, and others like Marilyn Monroe have inspired me.

bf: Grace Kelly almost became your wife; tell us what made her so terrific?

oc: Grace was a great beauty. She was indeed the most elegant and enduring woman in pictures of her time. A definite #1 in every category. Style, beauty, and grace were her qualities.The entire nation was at her feet.

bf: I still watch her movies with amazement at her beauty and the girl could really act! Tell us about your wife, the late actress Gene Tierney.

oc: Gene was also, in her time, the most beautiful lady of the screen. She was born in Connecticut and, like Grace, had everything going for her to be a success in pictures the breeding of a fine thoroughbred and classic beauty and she was lucky to have come from a good family environment. It was much easier, you know, when an actress came from such an environment. The whole world was envious of these two beauties. Everyone was very, very envious. Gene was so glamorous a goddess. Although her career was a short one, she was terrific!

bf: And the delicious Marilyn - how did you meet her?

oc: She was a delicious marshmallow. Marilyn was the most charming girl and a creation of the studio system. They just found her and made her into a starlet. Although she came from a humble beginning, she was the most charming, most witty, most grateful and naturally, the sexiest I'd ever seen. One day, on her usual rounds about the set to meet all the crew and workers in order to thank them, we met. I mean to tell you, Marilyn was exactly in real life like she was in the movies - very respectful and thankful for all that she had achieved and to those that had helped her. She had the nation at her feet during World War II and every soldier had dreams of her.

bf: Was there one particular dress that you designed for Marilyn that was a favorite of both yours and hers?

oc: Hmm - there was a marvelous red velvet dress that enveloped every curve of her womanly body. You could see every sexy curve of her body and there were a lot of curves. Unlike some of the actresses today, Marilyn had quite a body. Anyway, the dress was a red velvet mermaid dress that made her irresistible.

bf: Do you think that she's wearing that dress in heaven right this instant or is she wearing nothing but the clouds carefully positioned so that she doesn’t stir up the angels too much?

oc: Whatever she's wearing I’ll guarantee that she looks terrific!

bf: Sounds like you have had your plate full of muses.

oc: Every woman that I tried to meet was because she was an inspiration to me.

bf: Tell us what you think fashion is becoming - your thoughts on the modern approaches to your classics from the 60's that are prowling the catwalks of the world, such as those by the ultra-talented genius Marc Jacobs for Vuitton?

oc: Fashion has become show business.

bf: Personally, I feel that your masterful designs from the past are just what the doctor ordered. However all things should evolve and, in the case of fashion, modern interpretations are so important to keep youthfulness on the upswing.

oc: Fashion is evolving all the time and any competent designer envisions that and does not stay in his or her cocoon.

bf: Who out there do you see in your crystal ball as taking the top seat as the designer of this new era that we have to look forward to? Tom Ford who has put the Gucci name back up in lights and is now working with the House of YSL. I think he’s very talented and so fresh.

oc: No one at the present time stands out, but there is a bunch that the title will eventually be given to the designers that can afford the most advertising.

bf: The latest trend no-no? I never follow trends myself if I can help it. Your thoughts?

oc: To follow trends is to look at the work of others—not interested.

bf: Is there a current muse that we should know about?

oc: No, it is business as usual.

bf: By the way, do you know of Carolee Freidlander? She is the terrific lady that spotted a gorgeous strand of pearls at the sale of Mrs. Kennedy's estate. Inspired by that necklace and other pieces at the auction, Carolee created glorious strands of simple elegance for everyone to own.

oc: I don't know Ms. Freidlander. However, the Franklin Mint bought Jackie's Pearls for $200,000 and has been featuring them as well as other "Jackie inspired" jewelry for sale to the public. Miniatures of the Jackie pearls have been shown on the Jackie Dolls with authentic Cassini gowns, which are replicas from the Camelot era. The authenticity and quality of designs by the Franklin Mint are fabulous and well received by the public worldwide.

bf: Just a few more quick questions, Mr. Cassini. Your favorite food?

oc: Spaghetti.

bf: You've got to be an animal lover, no?

oc: Yes, I have plenty of animals of all kinds.

bf: I'm a Leo, born on August 5th. You?

oc: Aries, April 11th.

bf: We are both fire signs. Are you planning to branch out to the moon anytime soon? I'm looking forward to a very modern Jetson's-like retreat there.

oc: I have my retreats [here on this planet] already, for many years.

bf: I want to discover your beautiful native land of Russia.

oc: Go there! It is a spectacular country.

bf: I will do that. Thank you Mr. Cassini. It’s been a real joy.

And the future of design from Cassini's camp? You never can tell what he will pull out of his hat, be it of the classic cowboy variety or the polo helmet type. Maybe when Tipper Gore or the junior Mrs. Bush make it to the "Maison Versailles" as Oleg romanticized The White House to Jackie 40 years ago, they or their advisers will have their noses to the ground and bring him in to re-invent the first lady's image to reflect the new millennium. Heaven only knows they, and a few of their predecessors, could use makeovers.

Oleg Cassini's book A Thousand Days of Magic is available through Rizzoli and St. Martin's Press at bookstores worldwide.

Cassini's latest coup: From April 23 to August 11, 2001, The Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute will launch its annual gala by exhibiting many of Oleg Cassini's famous designs in "Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years" Curator and Vogue mega-talent Hamish Bowles will be working hand-in-hand with Mr. Cassini for this noteworthy retrospective.

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